Himalayan Harmony - a family trip to Sikkim and Darjeeling

Sikkim: Where Nature Smiles

If you are here for a simple Sikkim travel itinerary

• Day 1 (15 Oct) - Landed in Bagdogra, then by road to Darjeeling via Mirik garden and Sumendu lake, Nepal border - checked into Hotel Mt. Lungta

• Day 2 (16 Oct) - Darjeeling sightseeing- 4am to Tiger hills. War memorial garden, Ghoom monastery, Darjeeling tea garden - Leebong Cart road, New Mahakal / mall market.

• Day 3 (17 Oct) - Drive to Pelling along Rangit river. Check into Divsai Retreat

• Day 4 (18 Oct) - Kanchenjunga falls, Khecheopalri lake, Rimbi orange garden, Sanghak Choeling Monastery, Sky walk Pelling, Pemayangste monastery

  

• Day 5 (19 Oct) - Rabdentse ruins and Tulku bird sanctuary, Buddha park Ra’b’angla, Gangtok Golden Crest Hotel

• Day 6 (20 Oct) - Sightseeing to Chorten monastery, Tibetology museum, Gantonk ropeway ride, Ridge road flower garden, Ban jangri falls, MG marg and Lal market.

• Day 7 (21 Oct) - Drive to Tsomgo lake, Nathula pass, Baba mandir, Thambi view point. Check into the snow lion homestay at Zuluk. Visit Cloud warrior café.

• Day 8 (22 Oct) - Eco nature walk trail, drive to Siliguri, check into Delight Ashiana, shopping at Siliguri Hong Kong market

• Day 9 (23 Oct) - Science city visit at Siliguri, flight back to Bangalore

Planning > Packing > Re-planning > Re-packing

3 families (mostly the better halves) started planning the trip to Sikkim (whose tag line is “where nature smiles”)  & Darjeeling in July. Yes, Nature Smiles, and she did smile gently when discussions turned to sub-zero thermals, gloves, socks, trekking gear, Diamox, etc. etc.

The men got into the act and Darjeeling lost its place in favour of Lachen and Lachung in North Sikkim - Nature was now grinning widely. We zeroed in on the itinerary, shortlisted taxi agents, finalised both and then looked up hotels and resorts. Juggled reviews, stars, (constellations, galaxies), location, price (of course) - all  while exchanging countless whatsapp messages, links, phone calls, beers and side dishes.

And when we thought it was all done, Sikkim dedicated to give a sardonic loud laugh, enough to cause a cloud burst, resulting in flash floods in Teesta river in Lachen valley - just 2 weeks before our departure date.

Back came Darjeeling, out went Gurudongmar Lake (just love the way this sounds - Guru, dong maar?), no offense to Guru Padmasambhava, who is credited with finding Tibetan Buddism after whom this lake is named.

And so it goes - we boarded the flight, packing the eagerness and excitement of the kids, and anticipation of a great 9 days in the north east.

Day 1: Bagdogra - Mirik - Darjeeling (16th Oct)

Agile Itinerary - Our latest sprint was while we were on the flight. An army officer on our flight, recommended that we drive to Darjeeling via Mirik. We negotiated that with our taxi drivers and we were off.

Mirik is a city nested in the hills, we were spoilt for choice - beautiful lake with boating, horse riding, flower garden, walk along the lakefront and across an arch bridge. We chose to head to the nearest ‘veg’ restaurant. Most of these food joints are run by husband-wife who double up to roll rotis dough, stir Maagi, boil water for chai, serve and do the vessels.

Except when you have 6 hungry kids waiting for the food and only 2 cooks, it would take forever.

Mirik was the first holiday lesson - Slow down (Maagi takes more than 2 minutes to cook!!)

We had high expectations from the Pasupatinagar market bordering Nepal. One has to cross the border checkpost on foot, after an ID check. Once in Nepal, a taxi takes you uphill to the market. There were good deals on cosmetics, which made the trans-national trip worth it ;)

Lesson 2 - It gets dark at 5PM in the hills

It was dark, cold and we were famished by the time we got to our Mt. Lungta Hotel, at the outskirts of Darjeeling  at Ghoom. I went for a bit of a “ghoom” (meaning roam in Hindi), ran down 5k towards Darj and back. The run featured European styled cafes, tram tracks alongside the road, crisp and nippy night air. Got back to the warmth of the basement dining area of the hotel - to kichiri, to rotis and curry!

Day 2: Tiger hills, Darjeeling - Doorada betta nunnage

Kanchenjunga is the highest mountain peak in India, third highest in the world at 29,165 ft tall and is the pride of Sikkim. While it is one of the most difficult peaks to climb, it is visible from many parts of Sikkim (which we only found later).

The instruction for the next morning “at 4am, we leave for Tiger hill top, to view the sunrise”. There was no tiger on Tiger hill, nor did we go there to specifically see the sunrise, but we did go there at 4am, wearing all the warm clothes we had carried. We rented chairs for 50 a chair to sit and wait an hour for the Sun to rise, as the crowds swelled up on the observatory. Eventually when the Sun did come, it was to reveal a tiny Kanchenjunga peak, rest covered by clouds. I sneaked in a run in the Jalapahar cantt area before breakfast, taking the kids in tow.

We then went about checking off spots in Darjeeling - Batasia loop, Ghoom monastery, Mall road and Mahakal market. Enroute we stopped at the Darjeeling tea garden on Leebong Cart road) - we made a short trek of it - loved exploring the trails in the tea estate. Back in city centre, the Mall road has a Scotland-ish feel to it - local shops, cafes lining cobble street leading up to a courtyard. We ransacked half of Glennary bakery for lunch - pastries, pies, and the likes.

Lesson three - When on a vacay, all roads lead to shopping, even it is Maha Kal market

We finished the day with white mischief

Day 3 - Drive to Pelling

I ran up Tiger hills (300m climb) before we checked out of Darjeeling - it was a stark contrast to the previous “touristy” visit. The observatory returns to its calm post 6am, the taxis have taken the sleepy tourists back, leaving behind a paltry set of vendors. Many locals have either worked in cities like Bangalore or have some family / friend there. I met one who spoke good broken kannada as well.

The drive to Pelling was unremarkable - except for a long wait for the highway to be cleared of a landslide. The difference in scenery as we moved across the state border was evident - Sikkim is much more clener than WB. The drive offered stunning views of Rangit river, we reached our next hotel - Divsai Retreat, Upper Pelling.

Day 4 - Seeing Pelling

We woke up to great views of Kanchenjunga range from our balconies. I ran another 10k, but with a somewhat forgiving elevation, towards Dentam valley.

We had changed taxis since leaving Darjeeling, and our drivers had sized us up. For our first stop, we went straight out of Peeling along the Yuksom highway. It starts out looking like a normal waterfall along the highway, but an unseen set of stairs took us to the “pride before the fall” - to a cold pristine gushing cascade, falling from over 100ft. We slowly made our way across the tiny bridge and to the base of the falls and spent good quality time at this site.

Next stop was Khecheopalri lake (pause here and read the name aloud) - we trekked up to the watch tower over the Khecheopalri hill - kids, adults all needing a lot of goading. If we weren’t already high enough, there was a small store on top selling peach wine and beet wine. Rimbi orange garden was up next. More 2 minutes for the kids, more wine for the adults - cherry wine, litchi wine, rhododendron wine, amla wine, green apple wine, kiwi wine - on the rocks (quite literally).

Most Peeling tourist lists talk about a “Skywalk” at the Choeling Monastery - our next destination - it was more of a “glass-floor-bridge-walk”. The monastery was perched on top of the highest point in the vicinity with great views of the surrounding vistas.

We visited one more monastery - the Pemayantse. It was hosting an annual conference of monks, the chants and sounds of Dungchen (the long horn), drums, trumpets and couch shells. We also visited the museum nested in the top floor of the monastery.

After a fairly long day, we hit the city center (a mix of cafes, restaurants and tea shops). The women felt adventurous to try the Tukpa, momos, wai wai. I would be careful of a hotel that sold idli “vara”, but not them.

When we got to Divsai, our retreat manager was stroking a small fire (the Sikkim rum in our hands may have kindled something). As the cold set in, our discussions led to “Tong-Ba” - the millet wine of the locals. Before we knew, we were sipping on Tong-Ba and dancing around a campfire to “Sali Mann Paryo” and other chart topping Nepali songs, in the foothills of Kanchenjunga. The manager, Parikshit, was the star of the evening - and let us carry some great memories from Pelling! 

Day 5 - More driving, Gangtok

By now, I had established a morning run before the day start. Today, it was to the Choeling monastery (and beyond - along a road right up to the top of the Buddha) - 380m of ascent. The plan for the day was to get to the capital city, Gangtok. En route, we stopped by at Tulku bird sanctuary and Rabdentse ruins. The Aviary had a good collection of parakeets, macaws, doves and even emus!

The Buddha Park at Ra’b’angla is a recent monastery and is truly spectacular. Our taxi driver spoke to us about the Buddhist way of life & preachings - which was also depicted in the mural painting adorning the walls of the monastery. The Buddha park created by destroying natural forests left a bit of an incongruous after taste. Talking of taste - we were able to add to our culinary lexicon, yet again. This time we tried Sal roti (traditional bread cum aloo dum), Bamboo pickle and Khu-ri (traditional roll filled with leafy veggies and herbs) at a family run restaurant. En-route, driving along the river Teesta, we witnessed the carcass of shops, cars, and the destruction that the recent flash floods had left behind. We got to Golden Crest Hotel by evening to more Kichiri for dinner.

Day 6 - Gang up in Gangtok

The map showed a route to Enchey monastery, via Tsuglagkhang monastery & Ridge road - about 5k away and I set out uphill. In what turned out to be 460m climb (over 6km), I was able to appreciate the footpaths, footover bridges, short cutting steps to traverse the steep climbs.

Later during the day, we visited these sites in the taxi - Chorten monastery (the kids were amused at the offerings to The Buddha - biscuits, Kurkure and colas) and the Tibetology museum and library nearby. The Ropeway ride uphill to the Sectretariat, is a part of the public transport, run by the government and is very inexpensive. It offered panoramic views of the hillside and planted rooftops of locals.

The flower garden on Ridge road, excited none, except my better half to no end. Chrysanthemums displayed there were actually “imported” from namma Bengaluru. We “exported” some tulip bulbs!

Ban Jankri falls (sounds like Banshankri), our next stop, would not hold a candle to Kanchenjunga falls - regardless, we made our way to the steps and soaked our feet in the cold waters. It was perfect ruse for some chilled Enjoy Beer (any ruse works).

Our last stop for the day was MG Marg & Lal market. MG marg is all pedestrian shopping street, with a median filled with flowering plants. The cobblestreet brimming with Nepali, Bonglas, tourists gave it a very European vibe. I took up baby sitting (literally, sitting on a park bench) duties, but I believe Lal market was worth the bargains, esp. on fleece!! Fleece shopping, anyone?

Day 7 - Nathula

Hangover from the previous evening walk, the run had to cover MG marg. It was a different street devoid of all the revellers.

We checked out of a forgettable Golden Crest and headed towards Nathula pass. Would this be the day the kids would finally see snow and us unpack all our jackets?

Customary stop and Yak Yak haggling for a ride at Tsomgo Lake. At the Chai shack, more skull caps were bought; 5 layers, but somehow the chill seemed to find its way to the bones. Borders between discordial neighbours is always tense and so was the case with Nathula. The BRO has done a great job in matching road infra on our side of the border to that of the Chinese. Nathula pass is at an altitude of 14,000 ft - we wasted little time in getting back to our taxi and head towards Zuluk on the old silk route.

Quick stop to pay respects to a local war hero after whom the army has erected a Baba temple. Then the meandering roads, hairpins welcomed us to Silk route. At Thambi (meaning brother in Tamil) viewpoint we could grasp the beauty in its entirety - down the valley the roads curved!

Till we reached Zuluk, a quiet hamlet, Cloud Warrior army camp, a wine shop and army canteen. All this accompanying a homestay, Snow Lion, overlooking the hills far beyond. We got our chai, rotis and aloo sabzi at the mess and puris for breakfast!!

Enough time to sample the “magic moments” vodka, Samosa and Jilebi from the Cloud Warrior army cafe!

Day 8 - Look around Zuluk

I ran up towards Kupup on the old silk route to be greeted by surprised looks by soldiers doing their morning walks. The sharpest reaction came from an officer “I cannot understand you”. It is difficult to come to terms with a singlet wearing civilian running nowhere in near zero deg temperatures.

We checked out from Snow Lion at 10, not before more Jilebis and chai from CW cafe. We soon stopped at the Eco nature walk trail (which could have been any of the hundreds of trails in the mountains) spending most time deciding if we should head to Siliguri or Gangtok. Someone mentioned Siliguri shopping and the scales tilted. Our impulse hotel booking was at Delight Ashiana. The only delight was that the inside of the hotel was many times better than the filthy city, one could say you were in West Bengal. The shopping party returned with an empty cart (on a tuk-tuk) and my search for some famed Bengali sweet turned sour.

Day 9 - Bagdogra (Bang-bandra?)

We just had time to squeeze in a visit to the Science City in Siliguri, which made it worth the detour to Siliguri. The place was packed with DIY science experiments, a mirror maze, tropical park and other galleries. It was a fun few hours for the kids. The tuk-tuk ride also felt like a ride into history!

Final words: Pay heed to Mr. PM's 5th sutra - First see your own country - travel in India!!

A tale of 2 medals - Bengaluru Midnight Marathon 2024 and Vidyashilp Academy Sports

Build up: In hindsight, the injury from the fateful accident that I expected to recover in 2 weeks, took all of 22 months to finally give me a full marathon fitness. Over the months, the 'hustle' has been constant - first to get back mobility, then strength, then aerobic capacity, proprioception - it's been two steps forward, one step back over month after each month. But the hustle has been constant.

The Geelong half marathon in March this year, during a trip down under was well under target, the recovery was painstaking.

In May, I took part in a month long step challenge, making 26000+ steps per day in a slow shuffle. Then in Sep and then Oct, I ran an average 9 and 10kms per day. This gave me the confidence to include the weekly long run and some speed workouts.

About then, Rotary Club reached out to my employer, to consider sending a team of runners to participate in a "all proceeds go for charity" Bengaluru Midnight Marathon. About 25 of my colleagues expressed interest in the 5k, I felt I was ready for a full marathon.

I started incorporating the Yasso's 800s into my runs. One day an email from my kids school announced their Sports day and a 1500m "long" distance run for parents. I was unsure of how this 1500m morning run on the same day as the midnight marathon will play out overall, but this was a perfect chance to show the kids the 'art of possible'. I checked with them, and they emphatically said they wanted me to register.

And so it happened, that I would run a 1500m race in the morning and within 15hours get to the start line of a midnight marathon!

Strategy, Execution and Outcome

1500m race

With my kids looking on from the stands, this was a high pressure race for me. As I was warming up, I sized up the competition. I met RC, an alum of the school and a track athlete in his school days. We made some broad pacing plan - deciding to be on pace from the go and build a strong lead getting into the 4th lap. I knew from my training in Kanteerava stadium, that I was able to hold a 4min/km pace and suggested RC keep a 3:40 pace. I warmed up a bit, to ensure that I don't start with a 'cold' knee.

Two categories (above 40 and below - male) were combined together in an open start. As we took the first corner, RC & I were in 2nd and 3rd position and my Garmin was showing a blistering 2:50/km pace. Too fast. As I came into the next bend, I shouted "3:30 pace" to RC and that we needed to slow down. He was focussed on the parent in the lead, we decided to take him in the 3rd lap and to keep steady the next 2 laps.

In the second lap, I moved ahead of RC into the 2nd position and continued to reduce the gap to the 1st. In the third lap, now with a steady breathing rhythm, I was in earshot of the lead runner. I could hear his heavy breathing and passed him in good form. By this time, the cheers from the stands had reached high decibels.

I felt the rush, as the bell sounded the last lap. At the final corner, the kids were screaming out loud. As I ran down the final stretch I pointed to my kids in the stands and upped the pace. One mis-step, oops, but recovered quickly to pass the finish line with "rizz".

I stopped the clock at 5:22 - a proud moment for me and my kids!!

Next up - Bengaluru Midnight Full Marathon

I joked that this 42.2k would be easier than the 1500m - this was a no time pressure run. I toyed around with a sub-4hr possibility, had decided to keep to a sub-4 pace for the first half and then take it as it comes.

A few of colleagues were running the 5k starting at 6:30PM. I made my way to the start line with them for the photo-op. I then headed to a cousin's flat nearby for some BBB dinner and feet-up time.

The midnight marathon is conducted in Whitefield and since its inception in 2007 (read my race report from the archives), it is run in a 5k loop x 8 times! The traffic is blocked, there are some festivities and music, the loops come and go quickly - I like the model.

I sat quietly through the warm up - half anxious, half nervous. There were just a couple of familiar faces at the start line. Gul, the race director, gave instructions, "Each lap is 5.274km, you have to run 8 laps, if you forget how many laps you have done, take a look at the race time clock and calculate". This drew some laughs at the start line.

The full and half marathons started within 10mins of each other and must have had 500 participants in all.

Within the first km, Satish (who runs a self supported 100miler every year with a friend, Jay) joined me. We quickly realized we had similar finish goals and decided to stay together. For the next 4 laps, we did just that - sometimes a little ahead of pace, sometimes behind but keeping a healthy average - 28:38, 29:03, 26:06, 27:49 for the 4 laps.

I had to take a long 'one' break and a short 'two' break which turned out to be a 'fart' alarm, but didn't lose time (remember how some fans timed Paula Radcliffe's portaloo break during a race).

I expected the HMers and faster FMers would be done with their race by 3hours and then the last hour would have very few runners on course. By the 4th lap, Satish had also fallen behind and I was preparing myself for a lonely night ahead.

But then, Manju popped up - he had finished his HM with a personal best time of 1:27 and decided to join me for a lap or two. This was his way of returning a favour - he was a part of my 3:45 pacing bus a good 6-7years back!

We chatted a bit and held pace and before I knew that lap was over - 27:41

I knew if I was able to keep pace for the next lap, I would have enough in the bank for the last 2 to come in under 4hours.

On the 6th lap, I had a gel which I had hidden on the course. Manju was on and off, but helped me with some plain water to pour upon my head and mixed some salt in water at one of the aid stations, he then decided to call it a day. 6th lap in 28:02

I began to break the remaining 2 laps now into sections and despite a higher perceived effort still managed to keep pace. 7th lap in 28:29

By now, I had 12mins in the bank - meaning, I could finish the 5k in 40mins and still be under 4hours for the marathon! I found no reason to slow down and kept steady. 8th lap in 28:56

And that is how I finished my first marathon in 673 days in 3h:45m - finishing strong and managing a steady pace right throughout.

Yes, my last full marathon distance was on 11 Jan 2022, a self supported run to Nandi hills. Who would have thought it would take me 21months after that fateful accident to run my first marathon.

I am filled with gratitude for this opportunity to relive the feeling all over again. Thank you for your support!